1993 BMW K75S



Description: Here we have this 1993 BMW K75S a.k.a. “The Flying Brick”.  It is a well maintained bike with approximately 41k miles.  It was repainted in a nice gloss red and upgraded where needed with OEM BMW parts.  It is powered by a 750 CC engine that produces 68 HP and runs very smoothly using Bosch LE-Jetronic analog fuel injection and it is very peppy with a 4.7 second 0-60 time.  This bike would make a great bike for beginners as well as experienced riders.  This is a great bike that you do not see many of, it rides great going down the highway, the brakes are responsive and the suspension feels solid.

Below is the previous owner’s complete build description:


This 1993 K75S (“Sport” model) has a 100% stock drive train. It starts cold with no choke and no smoke. I spent the last several weeks giving it a refined cafe treatment by bringing maintenance up to date and trimming the fat without sacrificing comfort or functionality. It runs, shifts, rides and brakes smoothly. Front and rear tires are Pirelli Sport Demons, new in 2013, with quite a lot of tread life left. All in all, it offers a very consistent riding experience while standing out considerably from other K-bikes. Sporty and civilized. Turn key and turn heads.


When tackling a project like this, I aim for a final build that looks and feels like it could have been designed as such to begin with; I use BMW parts where possible and high-quality aftermarket parts where needed. Mods are as follows:

I removed the plastic dash pad and re-mounted the ignition key assembly below the fuel tank. Ignition, seat latch, steering lock, and fuel tank are keyed alike. The headlight assembly is a BMW/Bosch H4 unit originally from a 1979 R65.

I removed the rear indicators (turn signals) and filled the mounting holes in the lower tailpiece. I installed load resistors at the rear leads so that the bar-end indicators blink correctly. If you require rear indicators, I can re-install them prior to delivery.

The cockpit is now quite well-organized; I re-routed all the wires, cables, and controls for free movement and ease of adjustment. No loose wires, no twisted cables, no electrical tape, no extraneous zip ties.

The German-made Telefix handlebars are fully adjustable on all axes to position, orient, and angle them to suit your riding style. You could raise the mounts up to give you a near-stock riding position, or invert them for an even lower drop. The bars are exactly 22mm, so the BMW perches remain unaltered.

I replaced the hulking stock cluster with a compact Trail Tech Vapor gauge, wired for full-time 12V battery power from fuse #1. All three Vapor sensors are installed and operating correctly (see video). All the functions are easy to reprogram (MPH to KPH, 12hr/24hr, shift RPMs, warning temperatures). Trail Tech manual is in the tail trunk with the original BMW manual.

The two small LEDs built into the Vapor serve as coolant temp warnings and shift indicators. The supplementary LED panel shows blue for high-beam, green for neutral (a custom multi-relay assembly obviates the GPI), amber for turn signals (in-line diodes allow L and R to share one LED), white for low oil pressure, and red for low fuel. Surplus instrument wires are tucked neatly under the tank.

The solo seat is a stock BMW unit that I re-shaped and re-covered in (surprisingly tough and stupidly expensive) rip-stop vinyl. If you like, I can swap it out for a very nice stock BMW two-up seat and re-install the passenger pegs prior to delivery.


This bike was in service when I purchased it, but the cables & such were out of adjustment and the motor was running roughly, apparently due to a clogged fuel filter and a maladjusted TPS (throttle position switch). For good measure, I sent the fuel injectors off to “Mr. Injector” for ultrasonic cleaning; now in spec.

After some deliberation, I decided to remove everything from the frame, system by system, in order to clean, inspect, and reinstall all components and hardware with the correct torque specs, using assembly lube or copper anti-seize paste where appropriate. Cables, wires, tubes, hoses, pipes, clamps, brackets, pivots, pegs, cases, covers, bearings, bushings. This is a lot of work. Seriously.

When I changed the fluids, everything came out clean; no metal chunks on the magnetic drain plugs nor other red flags. Now refilled with Castrol synthetic. I cleaned and re-packed the bearings in the steering head, which is now turning smoothly with no notches. Other bearings all felt good, so I left them as-is. Prior owner had filled the cooling system with the famously overpriced BMW brand coolant; it looked clean, but I went ahead and flushed the system and refilled with more of the same.

I performed a complete spline lube (using Guard Dog 525), including the clutch output (gearbox input) and both ends of the drive shaft. See closeup pics for the condition of all splines. I installed a new WIX fuel filter, Flowmaster oil filter, and NGK plugs. I also checked and adjusted the valve gaps. Now all correct. See video for running demo.

I went through the electrical harnesses wire-by-wire to check and clean all the connectors. Everything is now well sorted. I flushed the brake fluid and bled the M/C and lines, front and rear. Rotors are straight and pads have plenty of life left in them. No pulsing, squealing, or shudder.

It really takes quite a lot of work to get this sort of build right; the distance between a rat bike and a cafe racer is evident in the attention paid to the details, proportions, and complementarity of stock and aftermarket parts. You get what you pay for, with your surplus cash or with your precious time — or if you buy the wrong bike, with both.